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The allure of Taraba
04/25/17, Biodun Omojola
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A breathtaking view of a valley from the top of the Mambilla Plateau. PHOTOS: KAYODE SOYINKA

Tourism attractions in Taraba State are almost limitless. From its winding road up the Mambilla Plateau, to its awe inspiring rock formations, a national park and game reserve, the state offers the tourist an adventure of a lifetime.

In Taraba State are some of the best tourist sites in Nigeria. Not very well-known outside the state those who have visited a few of the sites know that Taraba is sitting on a jewel and a money spinner. Like the diamond whose value is not fully appreciated until when cut and polished, these sites are so remarkable that they may very soon become the new destinations for tourists visiting Nigeria. That is if they are fully developed. Taraba is so rich in tourist attractions that a drive across the state will reveal awe-inspiring rock formations, cultural sites and festivals that will captivate the visitor. Now imagine if one decides to make a planned tourism trip.

Most Nigerian tourist destinations are over-flogged but those of Taraba State are not well known. But this won't be the case much longer as the government is planning to revitalise the sector.

It won't be an easy job considering that all the components needed to have a well-oiled tourism sector have been damaged and in ruins, not only in Taraba State but throughout Nigeria too. To boost these components and make them work in tandem with others will be a challenge especially with the poor state of the country's finances. It will take a concerted effort, and enormous political will to resuscitate the tourism sector. Tourism is often seen as the mediocre sibling in a family of superstars. In Taraba, however, the political effort to transform the sector is there. The state's Commissioner for Culture and Tourism, James Gani, told Africa Today that there is already a tourism master-plan.


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A river inside the Gashaka-Gumpti National Park, Taraba State. PHOTOS: KAYODE SOYINKA

The flag-ship of the state's tourism sector is the Mambilla Plateau, the highest plateau in Nigeria with an elevation of about 1600 meters (5,249 feet). Surrounded by various mountain formations including the Chappal Waddi (point of death) mountain which rises to 2419 meters (7,936 feet), it is the highest mountain in Nigeria and second highest in west Africa behind Mount Cameroon. That stands at about 4,040 meters (13,250 feet). The Mambilla Plateau, with a temperate climate all year round is considered the coldest area in Nigeria. It is home to Nigeria's and west Africa's only Highland Tea plantation, the Mambilla Beverage Company, makers of Highland tea and its green variant, is located in Kakara town.

The plateau straddles two countries - Nigeria and Cameroon. Its southern and eastern escarpments stand in the Cameroon while its northern escarpment and its western slope are in Nigeria. The name Mambilla is said to be an offshoot of the ancient name Mamberre which has been used for the Plateau for centuries and which represents its inhabitants. According to history, the Plateau, located in the southeastern part of the state, is the cradle of the Bantu-speaking peoples and has continually been inhabited by the same Mambillobantu for over four millennia. Without a doubt, there is a lot of history associated with this plateau.

Driving up the winding road that leads to the top can, simultaneously, be terrifying and awe-inspiring. Travellers are continually seeing one breathtaking view after another while keeping a close and watchful eye on the deep gorges besides the road which, truth be told, can be terrifying for the faint-hearted. So frightening are the turns and twists that a specific corner on the road is called kona govna, Hausa for governor's corner, so named because a then sitting governor of the state made an executive decision to turn right back at that point. Rightly so too, as that corner leads to a bridge that has the longest supporting pillars of any bridge in Nigeria. One can imagine the drop on the side! The governor, certainly, must have been overwhelmed - or should one say frightened? - by the gorges he saw on his way up and could not take it anymore when faced with crossing the bridge. The experience of driving to the top is incredible and the view spectacular: as one goes higher, the surrounding area is laid out below and to the side giving a picturesque view of the great Mambilla.

The Mambilla Plateau is so wide and full of tourist attractions that Gani said covering it in one month is not achievable. That is believable. Just north of the Mambilla Plateau is Nigeria's largest game reserve, the Gashaka-Gumpti National Park, "the largest, most bio-diverse and scenic conservation enclave in Nigeria." Sitting on 6,411 sq.km (nearly twice the size of Lagos State), Gashaka-Gumpti is a candidate for listing by the World Heritage site as an Important Bird Area, stronghold of primates in Nigeria and a leading research destination. It has also been identified as the most diverse in terms of species in the whole of west Africa, harbouring such rare animals as the colobus monkey, hippopotamus, chimpanzees and baboons, crocodiles, warthogs and water buffaloes among others. The Gashaka-Gumpti National Park belongs to the federal government but Taraba wants to manage it and turn it into an international tourist destination.


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PHOTOS: KAYODE SOYINKA

There is a bit of history about the Gashaka-Gumpti National Park. It was where German Forces, during World War I, had a face-off with the British supported by French and Belgian forces during the invasion of the German colony of Kamerun. Germany had established a trading post in Cameroon, part of the German Empire, which was supported by Bismarck, the Imperial Chancellor. Influence of the two super powers of the era - Germany and United Kingdom - is still acknowledged around the Mambilla region. Man-made forests in neat rows, the German barracks and cemetery are worth visiting, while cattle-grazing, which began during British rule, is still on-going. Part of the national park was a Trust Territory until a plebiscite and the people decided to join British Nigeria rather French Cameroon.

The Mambilla Plateau is not only a tourist dream come true, it is also an agriculturalist delight. Driving up the winding roads, the landscape is one of rural European villages with farms and lazy cattle grazing. The difference is that the villages have a pure African setting: close buildings with thatched roofs and corrugated roofing sheets and the ubiquitous motorcycles. It is the only region where tea is planted in west Africa and it was recently discovered that coffee is capable of growing there too. Already government has embarked on a pilot coffee growing scheme. A sea of green tea leaves, as far as the eye can see, welcomes the tourist to the top. Before that, the man-made forests present a picture in symmetry - a testament to the Germans who inhibited the area for over three decades ending in 1916. Walking and bird-watching enthusiasts will enjoy these forests, some with natural springs.


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A vast tea plantation on the Mambilla Plateau. PHOTOS: KAYODE SOYINKA

Descending is, perhaps, not too spectacular as ascending. Going up one never knows what sight one will come up against: you see a bridge far off and in a minute you are on it. On the drive down everything is laid out but even at that one still see sights missed on the way up. And it is quicker coming down.

Other places worth visiting in Taraba include the Ngel-Nyaki Forest Reserve, 60 kilometres west of the national park. It has over 50 species of trees and over 80 bird species call this reserve their home. There is the Marmara crocodile pond, the human-like rock feature in Zing, the mysterious rock formations at Kpambo and various waterfalls. The Kashimbila area, with its dam and airport, presents the state with another opportunity to develop tourism related activities within that area. Kashimbila is close to Obudu in nearby Cross River state and Cameroon. Cultural activities are also a tourism resource that the state government wants to package.

To make the Mambilla Plateau more appealing, Taraba state is seeking investors to help transform it into a top-class tourist destination. Gani said the governor sees the potential and he "is ready to develop the sector because it is one of the sectors that can generate revenue for the state by the time it is fully developed. Since the administration of Darius Ishaku came on the rescue mission, it has not relented on the issue of developing the tourism sector. We have discovered one thing and that is the sector cannot be properly developed without having a master plan. What we are trying to do now is documentation of all the tourism contents we have, we will now sit down and develop the master plan."

The state wants easy accessibility to the Mambilla Plateau to attract more tourists. Jalingo is already accessible by air from Abuja and there are plans to construct a helipad and a three-star hotel with a first class chef, to take advantage of the region's temperate climate. Currently, Mambilla has ample lodging facilities in the form of chalets at the tea plantation. Plans for a cable car are also in the works and the governor wants an 18-hole golf course. If he gets his wish, the course might be called course govna! The Turkish government has already signified its intention to bring in investors to look at the possibilities of collaboration between Taraba and Turkey through Turkish International Cooperation and Development Agency (TIKA).

Taraba is already fixing components that, when taken together, will make tourism enjoyable in the state. The roads are good, security is fantastic, transportation from the major cities to the state is available, the people are friendly, the local cuisine is excellent and best of all the sites are there. Come over and enjoy Taraba!


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A vast tea plantation on the Mambilla Plateau. PHOTOS: KAYODE SOYINKA

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